The Longest Ride (not really)

Today, Friday, we cycled (a mere) 20 km from Killybegs to Carrick, but we left at 10:45 and didn’t arrive until 3:30. Noah, who is in the best shape of the four of us, was mortified when he checked out the breakdown of our daily activities on the GPS (which our bike tour operators, Ireland by Bike, provided to us).

“We could have walked faster,” he said.

Not really – it took us such a long time because we kept stopping. (And, okay, I confess: it took us such a long time because there were a lot of hills on the shore route. And they were either long or steep or both. And not all of us can zip up hills like Lance Armstrong in the prime of his blood-doping years.)

steep hill no e

This is the flat part of the hill up from Fintra Beach.

dave, pre-bonking, on hill

Can you see how long and windy and hilly this road is?

But you’re not reading this to hear how out of shape I am. You’re not even reading it to hear about the trip. Admit it: you must want to see the scenery. And now you can understand why we took nearly five hours to go 20 km – we had to stop and gawp every 1500 meters or so (and also catch our breath and wipe sweat off our foreheads).

sheep and sea day 1

Some of my favorite things: the ocean, and sheep. In the same place! (Even Cape Cod doesn’t have that.)

Our first stop was at Fintra Beach, just outside of Killybegs. On the way to the beach we passed a new housing development that looked like something I saw the last time I was at Plimouth Plantation in Massachusetts, about 15 years ago: boxy little houses on a windswept plain by the sea.

plimouth like houses

I apologize for the less-than-impressive photo of the boxy houses. We passed them while going downhill, and I didn’t want to waste the momentum. So you’ll have to imagine them from this long shot.

Actually, a lot of what we saw today reminded me of Cape Cod. Also, a lot of what we smelled (mildew, seaweed, salt air). I feel very much at home here.

From Fintra Beach we rode along the coast to Kilcar, where we stopped at Studio Donegal, a woolen mill that’s been run by the same man, Kevin, since the 1970s. The weavers – today they were three men who appeared to be in their 50s or 60s — make beautiful wool that’s used for hats, coats, vests, jackets, scarves, and blankets.

weaver in studio 180 threads?

This weaver is making a lot of scarves at once. The person cutting can tell where to cut them, because the wool separating the scarves is a different color.


This is Kevin, who runs the mill. He was explaining to us how yarn is made from carded wool.

Kevin showed us around. Some of the equipment is nearly 100 years old. It’s maintained by a fellow from Britain who has lived in the area for many years.

wool on spindles

Wool on spindles.

Today’s big news is the Brexit vote: the Brits voted yesterday to leave the European Union. I was itching to know what people thought about it, but it seemed to me that most people we encountered, at least in our B&B at breakfast, weren’t interested in talking about it.

Dave and the kids and I talked about it – we were all shocked and upset (and for me, at least, worried about the implications for the US election) – but the other folks at our table didn’t join in our conversation. Maybe they were just as shocked, or maybe they hadn’t heard about it, or maybe they don’t talk politics with strangers on holiday.

However, Kevin’s son, Tristan, who was working the till, shared his opinion. He is convinced that Britain will keep holding referenda until they vote to rejoin the EU. He also said that he phoned their British employee this morning and joked (at least, I think it was a joke) that the immigration police were heading his way to kick him out of the country.

Instead of politics, we talked about wool. Tristan gave me a lesson about what makes good yarn (it has to do with the number of twists per inch, among other things), and showed me a number of different kinds of yarn for sale.

beautiful yarn on machine

This yarn is in the back room — not for sale to the general public. But you get a picture (literally) of the beautiful colors.


bags of wool

After we saw this room, with the dyed wool ready for carding, the song Baa Baa Black Sheep ran through my head for the rest of the day. But there were way more than three bags full of wool in the back room of Studio Donegal.

There’s a commercial knitting mill in town that spins yarn for Studio Donegal. Studio Donegal gets its wool from local sources, and also from New Zealand and Australia. Tristan has also bought the remaining stock from a local farmer who decided to get out of the mohair business (maybe something happened to his goats?).

We wound up spending close to two hours in Kilcar, most of it in the mill, because while we were there the sky broke open and the rain came down in a big way.

studio donegal outside

There’s a saying in Cape Cod: “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.” The same applies to Ireland. I took this picture about 20 minutes after an hour-long downpour!

We were definitely more prepared than we had been last evening, when we got caught in a downpour and only Dave had rain pants.

We were prepared because we stopped on our way out of Killybegs at McGinleys, a nice little shop that sells sporting equipment and clothes. Now Elizabeth, Noah, and I are the proud owners of rain pants. But just because we own them doesn’t mean we want to be out there, cycling in the rain…

modeling our rain pants

My children fail to share my enthusiasm about our new rain pants.

And we didn’t have to, because by the time we left Kilcar, the rain decided to take a nice, long break. It didn’t start up again until about 7:30, by which time we were eating dinner at the Cook’s Pantry in Carrick, a 10-minute walk from O’Neill’s B&B, where we are hunkered down for the evening.

Tomorrow we will head out to Sliabh Liag, also known as Slieve League, or Slieve Leag, or Slieve Lieg (it’s the Irish equivalent of Hannukah –nobody agrees on how to spell the transliteration). It’s a 600-meter-high mountain at the edge of the ocean, with some of the highest cliffs in the country.

Not surprisingly, Noah wants to cycle up. Equally not surprisingly, the rest of us are less than enthusiastic about that idea. Brid (pronounced “Breej”), who runs O’Neill’s B&B, suggested we consider a boat tour around the cliffs.

However, given my propensity for motion sickness (I can’t even sit on a playground swing without wanting to throw up), when faced with the choice between a boat tour and a bike ride up a mountain, I think I’ll opt for a walk.

Stay tuned!


Fifty Shades of Green (and also some footie news)

June 23, 2016

We’ve been in Ireland for just over 13 hours and we’ve taken a bus across the country, a car to our bed-and-breakfast, and a bike ride in the rain. Tomorrow, apparently, we will be taking more bike rides in the rain. I would complain, but I knew what I was getting into when I booked this bike tour: a country doesn’t earn the nickname Emerald Isle because of its dry, hot climate.

50 shades of green

Ireland earns its nickname because most of it is this color, and you don’t get all that green without a whole lot of rain.

On the plane from Vancouver to Dublin on Wednesday, I sat next to a lovely septuagenarian, Moira, who moved to Canada from Ireland nearly 50 years ago and was flying back with her daughter and granddaughter for a family visit. She described her homeland as having “40 shades of green.” I think there may be 50. Or more.

We are bedding down in Killybegs, 30 km from Donegal. As fitting for a town on a peninsula that sticks out into the North Atlantic, it’s a fishing village.


We did not buy our fish here. We bought our fish cooked (also fried, baked, grilled, steamed, smoked, and in a salad with crabmeat) at the Turntable Restaurant at the Tara Hotel. We are now officially addicted to smoked mackerel.

It’s also the home of Seamus Coleman, captain of the Irish national football (soccer) team that beat Italy Wednesday night to advance to the round of 16 in the Euro 2016 tournament in France. His father owns the hotel down the street from our B&B.

bay view hotel

Seamus Coleman’s father’s hotel, the Bay View. True to its name, it is directly across the street from the Bay (the watery one, not the famed Canadian department store).

There are signs in all of the windows saying, Good luck Seamie! There are signs everywhere, actually, cheering on Seamie (and the Irish team).

good luck seamie2

The front door of the Bay View Hotel. Good luck, Seamie! (and the Irish team.)

good luck seamie

A window at the Bay View Hotel. Good luck, Seamie! (and the Irish team).

Apparently, Seamus (Seamie to the locals) and his team will need the luck when they meet France on Sunday. Patricia, who runs our B&B, The Seawinds, with her husband, Gerry, told us that the last time Ireland played France, France got away with a handball and as a result, Ireland lost. The locals fear that history will repeat itself.

seawinds dining room with seamie pic

That’s me in the mirror, taking a picture of the cereal counter in the dining room at The Seawinds. Gerry and Patricia don’t have a Good luck, Seamie! (and the Irish team) sign, but they do have a signed photo of Seamie. His handwriting is illegible. When he wraps up the soccer career, he should work on his penmanship.

I thought Patricia was talking about a game that happened a couple of weeks ago. In fact, she was describing a 2009 game, leading up to the 2010 World Cup, when French forward Thierry Henry touched the ball with his hands. The ref didn’t make the call, and France scored, thwarting Ireland’s opportunity to short-cut its way into the World Cup (the team had to take the long, hard route).

This article — — provides background, including details of what is probably best described as a a don’t-sue-us-for-screwing-you-over payout to Ireland, courtesy of Sepp Blatter, underscoring yet again what a crooked knob he was, and why we should all be glad that he’s no longer running FIFA.

dave in front of mginleys

Dave poses in front of McGinleys, a wonderful little sporting goods and clothing shop across from the Bay View Hotel, where we purchased rain pants on Friday morning, partly to keep dry, and partly to ward off the rain. Stay tuned to find out if they worked. Note the 8.5 x 11-sheet of paper in the lower half of the front door. You guessed it: it’s another good-luck-Seamie sign.